The berenjenas fritas con miel de Montoro y queso de cabra de Zuheros in Cordoba kept me happy as I continued my journey by train to Seville. I walked almost a half-hour in a bit of a sketchy area to my little room at the Hotel Alcántara, a Moorish-inspired building in the Jewish quarter of Old town Seville. I was glad there was still some daylight left to the evening. Down below on their 15th-century patio, there was nightly flamenco. But did I attend? No!
I spent that first evening on a food tour of Seville. Yes, I am here to dine and wine. What can I say? It was Tapas Like a Local: Triana Neighbourhood Tapas Tour with Devour Seville.
The guide was a pleasant local woman who had spent a few years in the US. I had the pleasure of four other companions but of course, they were all American and coupled up, one newlywed and the other blissfully married for decades. So while they talked about married life, I ate and snapped photos.
I liked the charming Triana neighbourhood on the west bank of the Guadalquivir River. It reminded me of my stay in Trastevere, Italy. Since I don’t eat pork the tour made accommodations and at one stop I ended up with a plate of delicious octopus all to myself.
The Bar Santa Ana just across from the eponymous Gothic church is bustling with character. So many religious icons and photos beautify every inch of space on its walls. Every day is Holy Week!
Bar Santa Ana 
Church Santa Ana
The Triana neighbourhood is also known for its ceramics, a manufacturing tradition dating back to the time of the Romans. The Las Golondrinas is one of the most popular tapas bars in the city, and the decor is everything Seville too!
Over the next couple of days, I visited the Seville Cathedral and the Real Alcázar. Even though I didn’t attend a formal flamenco show, I managed to get some flamenco action during my walks around town. That was enough flamenco for me.
The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace built on the site of a Muslim fortress at the beginning of the Christian Era in Seville. My ticket included exclusive entry to the Cuarto Real Alto (Upper Royal Quarters) that are still in use today by the Spanish Royal Family when they come to Seville, but it was the gardens that were the highlight for me.
Once, I had a fancy lunch at what looked to be a tourist trap, a restaurant whose patio offered front-row viewing of the Seville Cathedral. It was Restaurante el Giraldillo de Sevilla. The lunch itself, a pan of arroz melosa de rabo de toro, was actually delicious to my surprise. I tend not to like European rice dishes but the oxtail was calling my name and I rather enjoyed the meal. It didn’t hurt that I had an attentive waiter originally from Morocco who chatted me up a bit.
But, here I was sipping my Tinto de Verano, my new favourite drink in Spain, trying to enjoy the afternoon, the sun, the view, the meal, and would you know it, CHINESE TOURISTS! You know what I’m about to say right?
Groups of Chinese tourists were taking turns taking selfies and group photos near us. They were so loud with their cackling. I could tell the other patrons of the restaurant were annoyed as well. But the Chinese tourists were in public space so nothing much the restaurant could do.
Then one Chinese couple, deciding my table was uber-lovely, had the wife pull out the chair and sit with me. No excuse me, no sorry may I take a photo, no sign language attempt, just plop took a seat and proceeded to pose for the camera whilst blocking my view of the Cathedral.
Since this is not the first time Asian tourists wherever in the world have tried to take photos of me (because why?!) I didn’t care that for a change she was only taking photos of herself. I shooed at her but she looked at me as if I rather was being impolite. She ignored me, got the photos she wanted and then switched places with the male partner. At this point, my waiter was returning so I asked him to get rid of them from my table. Their audacity! Mtcheew!
In other news though, my hotel reservation was made through Booking.com and they sent me a voucher for various attractions. Thus I took an impromptu but lovely walking tour of the Santa Ana district.
Rosina’s Balcony – The Barber of Seville 
Corral de Herrera
Eventually feeling really grand, I decided I would take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the city of Seville. It was expensive (45 euros for about an hour) but I felt like a queen in my chariot especially when the horse took to the roads and we were clearly holding up traffic, me all alone in a carriage made to fit four if not six people. If I were a local I would hate these horse carriages on the streets. But I’m not. I’m a privileged tourist entering into the Plaza de España as if I was entering into the grounds of my own palace…grinning from ear to ear…delightful.
A lover of mangoes. A woman - smart, without pretense, lefthanded, Afropolitan - navigating this thing called life. An unapologetic believer in social justice and karma. Choosing to radiate positive energy and be true to myself. Here, my musings.
This has just popped into my inbox. But it seems to be dated 5th Nov 2018. Confused.
Good post, though – you’re employed by the Seville tourist board, presumably? 🙂
No, not employed by any tourist board. Just a traveler…with a very long list of draft posts that I’m just getting around to publishing.
Thanks!